Valparaiso I love you!

I woke to a pea souper and from my window I could barely see the port. No jug in my room forced me to go out for coffee but being Saturday and before 10:00 am most everything was closed. But there was the Melbourne Cafe where I went yesterday when without realising what I had ordered was served a bowl of what they believed to be an Americnao. Stupid me I saw Melbourne Cafe and thought they would have good coffee, after all it was recommended in a number of places. Flat, under expressed, dish water in a fish bowl. Not coffee, not drinkable, not worth it. 

Todays double espresso at least looked like a coffee and came in an appropriate sized cup, if a little larger than I expected. It was wasn’t so bad so I ordered another to have while I finished off last night’s blog. 

Coffee done, blog uploaded I set out walking. I’d left my map behind so had no idea where I was going but set out uphill anyway. 

Well, it’s not often that I am lost for words, totally mesmerized by what I was seeing in front of me but here I am. What can I say but WOW!. Weekend tourists from the city aside I found myself wandering in a sea of colour, art galleries, cafes and was floating in a feeling of euphoria. I was in love again. 

The street art was everywhere, each one better than the next. The houses, each one different to the next, popping with colour and the cobbled streets made for the most idyllic setting. 

Dozens of tiny art galleries were tucked down alleyways, each filled with their own unique art work; all with ‘no photo’ signs. 

So absorbed by my surroundings I managed hill climbs with ease, 100 step stairs like they were 10 and then realised it was way beyond lunch time. Where to stop with so many choices but many with touts outside and so were given a miss. 

Then I stumbled across the Peregrine Cafe where a group of local women were participating in their weekly embroidery meeting, sitting with needles and cloth happily chatting amongst themselves. 

Having had my coffee fill for the morning I ordered a spicy rooibos tea, delivered to me in the cutest pot and with a divine wee cup to drink my tea from. 

The waffles with apples, cinnamon and caramel sauce didn’t quite match up but it was food and it was edible. The staff made up for it. All cheerful, pleasant and eager to please. 

I kept walking and again blown away by the sound of opera coming from a cafe in Beethoven Street. 

How sad I can’t capture it here but it didn’t stop me standing outside to listen. 

I soon got to a very touristy place and decided it was time to get off this track and head back

With a quick detour to buy a pair of cheap jeans to keep me warm I headed home and put my feet up. 

All day I had been dreaming of eating at the Peruvian restaurant I spied the day I arrived and when heading there before it was even 6pm when the hunger pangs were taking over, I found it closed. Continuing on the same road I found another place with the menu in some language that bore no resemblance to anything I had seen before. 

So without having any idea what I was ordering (I could normally figure it out) I chose Lomo Saltado, apparently a traditional Peruvian dish. They bought me fresh bread and quite frankly I could have just eaten three serves of bread and I would have bern happy. Sazon Nazca came recommended so I waited for my meal with bated breath. 

OK, now I’m writing as I eat only because my Lomo Saltado is too good not to describe it while I take each mouthful. 

Melt in my mouth cubes of beef, cooked with chunks of red onion and tomatoes in a rich brown sauce. It came beautifully presented with white rice and fries and it is D E L I C I O U S. The beef is tender as tender, melt in your mouth, cooked just so it is a smidgeon beyond pink and oh so tasty. The sauce too was just yum, warming, rich and seasoned perfectly. Chunks of onions and tomatoes complement it perfectly. I can feel that drool dripping down my chin and don’t care in the slightest. My only wish is that I didn’t order a wine to go with it. My coke will have to do. 

A happy chappy after the best meal I have had in some time I’m now thinking that perhaps I shouldn’t have missed Peru from my itinerary. However since Chileans prefer Peruvian food over any other I can try and get some more in before I leave this magical country.