Always expect the unexpected

This morning I had the best shower ever.  Ot in a rush to do anything I lingered under the torrents of hot water coming out of a ceiling rose like a huge waterfall, pricking my skin as it hit. Oh what a start to my day. IBIS you have done well. That was followed soon after with a great espresso double from Melbourne Cafe. My day has begun. 

I didn’t have anything special planned and it was really foggy so thought I’d grab a bus and go up the coast to have a nosey. I gave up waiting for the 601 (which is the express bus) so I went on an adventure on a 602. Rattly, old, jerky, great music and an insane driver that planted his foot and may have even glued it there because it never let up. It cost less than $1 for the 50 minute ride along the cost to Vina (pronounced Vinya - has a squiggle on the n meaning its a ny rather than a n) del Mar and then on to Concon. 

Busses are really frequent, clearly labelled stops (no timetables tho) and the busses have fare options written on the front windscreen. To the end of the line (wherever that may be and price dependent on where), local (intercity), escolar (students), or any number of other options. Drivers chat with passengers, people on the street as they drive and my driver did a great job of issuing my ticket and giving me change while he swerved in and out of the traffic. 

It was a shame about the fog but it was a lovely drive along seafront past yachts, parks, and beautiful homes. In stark contrast to shabby but gorgeous Valpo this was flat, clean, modern, bland but pretty. Manicured lawns, souless parks added to the prettiness but also to the lack of soul. There was a stunning coastline with massive waves and huge golden red sand dunes. The sea went forever and you can literally swim to NZ from here. 

The cities along this coast all run in together and I’m not sure where one place started and the other stopped but somewhere I noticed McDonald’s arches which is rather unusual as chain advertising is usually discreet and certainly not easily found. Maccers opened up in Valpo a while back but closed up within 2 months as no one wanted them. They opened a Mac cafe in its place and that went down better.

At Concon, the end of the line, I simply crossed the road and caught a bus back again as I didn’t want to investigate any more. This time I got a posh bus on the way back. It was half the distance, twice the price and $1.40. This run was the express and whizzed along the motorway so I missed the views and the glimpses of the residential areas. In contrast to the first bus of the day this one had plush velvet sears, headrests and a driver that was as fast as the previous one. 

At the back seat there was a guy who had ‘reserved’ the seat next to him with bunch of grapes. He would randomly pick up the bunch, eat a grape and put the rest of the bunch back on the seat where someone else’s bum would have, at some stage, imparted fumes and other delicacies. I love public transport. 

I walked quickly around Vina and then caught a rickety bus back to Valpo and made a beeline for Melbourne cafe for a fix. The cleaners were still doing my room when I got back so I set off on foot again not going anywhere in particular. I walked to the top of the hill and it was easy but I guess I will pay for it tomorrow. The street art continued as did the views. Just stunning. 

Valpo is known for its funicular’s so I felt it was something I had to do before I left so caught it back down. Normal people get the funicular up and walk down. Not me duh! It was a short and almost vertical trip down in a rickety old bomb of a cage and cost twenty cents. Neither fun nor awful. But I did it. 

I had nothing better to do so when I got down so went to check out a restaurant for dinner. I heard music and was so excited when I found the most amazing jazz band playing in the square right in front of me. Fab music and I stood mesmerised tapping my foot and swaying to the music. 

Then a story unfolded in front of me. A dance troupe played out an elaborate scene from a production they were doing. I didn’t quite understand what it was all about but it painted a pretty dismal picture with people dying all over the place (may have been the plague). 

As if that wasn't dramatic enough a drunk thought he would join in the dancing (not part of the show) getting in amongst them and eventually flaking out. A couple of spectators pulled him out of the way and eventually he got taken away in a paddy van. 

As the story became more dramatic and the dancers were more active the local flock of dogs (there are dogs everywhere) joined in by barking and chasing the dancers. Hilarious. 

Eventually the bad guy got taken away by death and the show was over. Truly magnificent and what a way to spend a couple of hours on a Sunday evening. Wow, wow and wow.

I was close to where I ate last night so went for a repeat of what I’d had but that place was closed and I ended up going to another Peruvian next door. Last nights meal was so good I ordered the same again but with chicken this time. Did the Cab Sav tonight too, local drop but of unknown vineyard. Smooth velvety and divine. 

This dish was nowhere near as good as last nights. The chicken was dry and overwhelmed by the richness of the sauce which had a strong element of soy sauce (in Peruvian food?) but it filled a gap. I feel better now about having given Peru a miss on my itinerary. At least I have had some of their food. 

Another lovely day comes to an end with me tucked up in bed early watching TV and not understanding a word. 

Valparaiso I have loved being here, you are amazing with so much character but I have to move on to prepare for my next adventure. 

Probably no blog tomorrow. I expect it will be a boring day of travel back to Santiago and settling in to my new ‘home’ for four days. Then its off to Colombia.