The magnificent works of Guayasamín -WOW!

I go down to breakfast at a respectable hour and the divine Senorita Lucia had a bowl of fruit with yoghurt waiting for me. She had dressed it beautifully and I felt horrible saying I couldn’t eat it. But my americano and juice were gratefully accepted and enjoyed. The wait staff here all wear hairnets and those serving wear white cotton gloves. They really have thought of everything. Considering the place has been virtually empty since I arrived they have an abundance of staff and all so lovely. 

To start my day outside of the hotel I enjoy a duble espresso at Diosolopay and I start to feel human again. The altitude is getting to me this time round but thats ok. An excuse to take it easy. 

While drinking my coffee I caught up with the display about Quito 2040 and the amazing plans they have for this already gorgeous city, all with sustainability in mind. There are 10 initiatives they are focussing on including new water reservoirs, sports grounds, implementing sustainable agriculture, enhancing the new section o f the city. It will be stunning when done. 

Most of the tourists that come here are on the way to the Galapagos Islands, but with the very likely narrowing of tourism to the islands for ecological reasons the tourism here will probably reduce. That will be sad for the livelihood of the locals but it will stop it turning into a tourist haven, which at the moment it isn’t. If they close down access to the Islands it will also affect the local Amazon tourism (Ecuador has only around 3% of the Amazon Basin and most tourists go to Peru or Brazil for an Amazon experience). In the wider group that I was up the basin with I was the only one not going to the Galapagos and for the others the Amazon was a secondary reason for being here so the closing of the islands could have catastrophic effects on tourism. Oil, gas and agriculture all contribute hugely to the economy so there is ample to keep the economy going. 

Its hard to get my head around some of these countries still being classified as developing countries. Sure they aren’t as modern as our countries and many people do not earn anything like a living wage but they blow me away with how further ahead they are in other thing. The average monthly wage was $437.44 in 2017 (they have USD here). A restaurant meal in a local place could cost around $3, in a bit more up market $10, and in a tourist/international place around $20. A BigMac combo is $6.00 and 2 litres of coke $1.84. 12 eggs at $2.35. Clothes are slightly cheaper here than at home, but not by much.

A doctors visit costs around $40. One months rent for a furnished studio in an average city area is about $400 (which is almost the average wage). One months utilities for a studio apartment $76.

There are many many people selling things on the street or doing things like shoe shining. I had my boots done by a lady with virtually no teeth and a massive smile. She had three kids with her, two of the pre-school age and a wee girl aged about 7. She was beautifully dressed in an ironed school uniform and spoke a few words of English. I imagine that the shoe shine people make bugger all, although she charged my $5 for the privilege of polishing my old boots. I know I got ripped off but who cares. If it helps put another kid into school then its worth it.

One really special thing that I have noticed here, and also in both Colombia and Chile is the lack of litter and the provision of ample and varied methods of litter disposal. Separate bins for plastics, paper, organic and other are everywhere. We often have visions of developing countries being dirty but so far I haven’t been anywhere that fits that bill. Buenos Aires had heaps of litter and there were parts that stunk of sewerage but otherwise everywhere I have been is as clean (maybe cleaner) than home. 

That little bit of pondering over coffee behind me I grabbed a cab for the long journey (about 20 minutes) across town, through the new city and into another older pat of town to a museum that was recommended to me by Senorita Lucia.

Well, mind blown is not strong enough for my experience at the Guayasamin gallery and Museum. Here was a massive gallery holding the works of the famed Ecuadorian artist Oswaldo Guayasamin displaying art from his series depicting man’s cruelty to man. Very gruesome but rather stunning at the same time and not my thing but telling stories of good vs evil, the mixing of races and the potential of greatness within humanity. Photo’s were not allowed but google ‘Oswaldo Guayasamín’ if you want to see some of his work.

Some of his sculptures were shown outside:

Then I go to the museum to view his personal collection of art. The collection is housed in what was his own home and remains where he had it displayed. It was truly indescribable, so much stuff, so many antiques from pre colombian times. For someone that was not religious there was a huge amount of religious art but also work from many of the masters; Goya, Picasso are some of the names I recognised but there was so much to see that I felt intoxicated by the time my mini tour ended. I walked into the store at the end of the tour in a bit of a stupor and laid my eyes on a piece of jewellery that he had designed. Done! I’m wearing it now. 

Wow I had plans on doing so much today but was a bit zonked out by the magnificence of what I had seen that I just cabbed to a square in the new city where I had seen some artisan markets. When I originally decided to come to Ecuador I planned on going up to the famous Otovalo markets, but on checking it out more found that whatever is sold there can be found cheaper at the artisan markets here. Otovalo is quite a bit higher in altitude as well so I decided not to push it and stayed close to home. 

My afternoon was spent wandering aimlessly, the markets didn’t grab me at all so eventually grabbed another cab for a $2 ride home. 

Packing, writing, relaxing and a quick dinner at my favourite shop filled up my last night in Quito. 

Ecuador, I have loved every moment. Your people are so divine, your jungle is mindblowing, your culture so interesting and Quito is just super. There are so many things I would have liked to have done whilst here - maybe next time. 

Caldo de galina for the soul.

Today was a day of lazing and basically doing nothing. Long needed and much enjoyed.
Back to the local fast food shop for a bowl of chicken soup, Caldo de galina; a local kwicha dish with a chunk of chicken and a piece of yucca in a chicken broth with spring onion and rice. Too good and just what I needed. Could only be made better with the addition of egg and lemon sauce!
Its neat to get back to speaking a few of the words I had learned. I enjoyed having basic conversations with the people at the lodge and was surprised at how much I picked up from the native people who speak Spanish quite slowly. The guides all spoke fluent Spanish and English but most of the native guides only Spanish and Kwicha. I’m sure they understood more English than they let on as I often caught Wilson smirking to himself when one of said something smart.

It was great to have some local food again too. Although the food at Sacha was exceptional it was predominantly international with a few local veg thrown in.

As I sat drinking my espresso duble earlier on I was thinking of the neat people in my group. Myself and 5 poms, and then there was an American and an Australian couple in our other group. An American and an Australian bird watcher made up the entire tram that arrived on the same day.
As usual theres always one who’s been everywhere, done everything, knows all there is to know even about the things they don’t know, doesn’t stop talking and is bloody hard work. But I guess thats what makes group trips so interesting and maybe why I like to travel alone.

Wandering back home from my lunch I popped into a bag store next to the hotel. Who should be there but the divine Senorita Lucia from the hotel. It is her son’s store and she was there visiting her father who was holding the fort. What an amazing lady. She never stops and has everything under control. I told her not to bother with my room as I was as only going to be out for a bit (and I made the bed before I left). But I get back, fresh sheets, new towels and the divine scent she uses permeating every corner. I adore her and would so like to do something special for her. But what? I guess some $ is the most useful.

I lazed the afternoon away then went to a little local place for dinner. I chose the Fritada which is the ‘national’ dish. Fried dry and crusty chunks of pork with hominy (big corn) salad and avocado. I should have stuck to the place I had been going to. Oh well I had a pastry in my room.
My lazy day had come to an end and quite frankly I could do with another.

Amazon Basin you have been amazing.

Our last day at Sasha Lodge started with a sleep in till 6:30am. Time to get our bags out onto our balcony for collection, have breakfast and make for our dock. It was hosing down and the thought of another day feeling wet and uncomfortable wasn’t pleasant. The poncho’s are hot and stuffy and not totally waterproof. When they get wet they stick to you and are quite gross. I’m glad I packed my own wee parka.

I have absolutely loved this wee jaunt into the jungle and so pleased I have done it. It didn’t have the magnificence of Africa but most definitely had serenity, green and critters in abundance. The lodge and the whole experience was superb. Our every need catered for and not a thing left to chance. It was stunning. Although it rains here around 280 days per year I’d like to come back when it wasn’t so wet as the humidity was pretty tough.

From the little that we saw of the native Kichwa people they are hard working, innovative people receptive to change and making the most of tourism but without letting go of their roots.  Our native guide Wilson knew everything there was to know about the creatures of the jungle; he had been part of it since he was a child and it was all second nature.  The people that we met at the village were making them most of what tourism could provide for them but ta the same time living their humble lifestyle without letting go of their roots. I would have loved the opportunity for more interaction with them.

But now we are on our way. Across the lagoon and down the tributary in the dugouts, a gentle walk to the dock and then we boarded the motorised canoe up the Napo River. The serenity of the surroundings sadly were ruined by a turkey American at the back of the canoe who did not stop talking in a loud voice the whole trip. It gave us something to laugh about but sadly detracted from the tranquility and stunning trip.

A virtually empty plane, where we all stretched out, bought us back to Quito, and a cabbie deposited me at my home, the lovely Casa Hotel Las Plazas, where I was greeted with open arms and taken back to my room no 16. 

Time for a rest day today, catching up on bits and piece’s and not venturing far with a chance to reflect upon my three days in the largest rain forest in the world. Amazing..  

Amazon Basin and the local people

5:30am and I get the bang on the door again, breakfast by 6:30am and we board one of the canoes for our trip to the Napo River, through the lagoon, down the tributary and to the dock, where we get off and walk through the jungle till we get to the next dock on the banks of the Napo. Donning life jackets and with ponchos on hand we climb aboard the the motorised canoe to go across the Napo and up another canal till we got to a landing where a pseudo village had been created to show us how the Providencia people live.

The local village have teamed with Sacha Lodge to provide an experience for the guests. Each week two of the women from the community come and speak to the visitors, explaining about some of their customs, who males and females play out their roles, how they build their homes and how the cook. Today we had the lovely Marigot and Erika and their children explain it all to us. Like many indigenous peoples (or even peoples in less developed areas) men and women have defined roles. The men are the hunter gatherers, build homes, make baskets etc and the women, cook, clean, raise kids, tend to the fields etc. Erika showed us how they gather food from the fields and transport it back to their homes in big baskets hung from their foreheads.

They showed us how they prepared a tea type drink with dried leaves and then we had a try. Just like green tea and known for its antioxidant properties.

Next we saw how they make chicha, a foul tasting white liquid that they use for sustenance and as part of their basic diet. Its made with steamed yucca (manioc, or cassava) which is then pounded and grated sweet potatoes added to begin a fermentation process. I do t think anyone liked it. Ugh.

We also had another fermented drink which was a little like cider and certainly drinkable.

While we were learning all this the women were preparing us some snacks on the fire (the central point of their lounge/bedroom/dining room) and laid plantain, yucca and parcels of palm heart over some bamboo poles above the fires. Then out came a skewer with live bugs on it (like large huhu bugs) still wriggling their hearts out. I was close to the fire and felt sick as I watched the wriggling get less and less.

Eventually our snack was ready and Erika chopped a huge leaf from the forest, laid it on the ground and our food was arranged on the leaf. We were invited to help ourselves, which we did. The plantain, yucca and heart of palm were yum but the bug was a different story. It was quite soft until my teeth crunched on the head and then I’m sure it moved it my mouth. Eventually I had to spit it out. Gross, but I tried. 

One of the children, a little girl was gorgeous came and cuddled up to me, I just wanted to take her home and wished I’d had a treat to give her. She was so beautiful. 

Soon it was time to leave and we made our way back across the Napo to the dock and then walked to the next dock. Wilson took us down a wee path to see a couple of owls he had found. Real cute:

It was nearly lunch time but not before I snapped a pic of a Caiman resting in the water under the lodge, its eyes piercing as if to say ‘sod off or I’ll get you lady with the camera’. A little further along were two babies hanging out and a third nearby. 

While we were having lunch a group of monkeys were playing in the trees nearby and so I left to go get my camera and grab a pic. Murphy’s law that by the time I got back they had gone.  

I tried so hard to get a pic of the most stunning butterfly, with iridescent blue wings but they wouldn’t stay still long enough. They are so beautiful though that the image will stay in my mind as one of the most gorgeous things I have seen here.

Our afternoon adventure started with a canoe ride across the lagoon and then up one of the tributaries taking in the flora and fauna on the way. It is so peaceful and serene you never want it to stop but we git to the end of the stream, parked up and walked a short way to the base of a huge kapok tree. Up to the canopy of the tree was a climbing frame with about 150 steps upwards and a viewing platform at the top. I made it up easily. Thanks MoE for giving me the chance to practice stair climbing, it has come in handy.  

The platform swayed and seemed much higher than the canopy walk simply because the kapok tree was so much taller than the rest of the trees so we had more to look down on. I was getting over birds and feeling a bit woozy so made it down and waited for the others at the bottom, practicing what I would do if a snake came along while I was there alone. Fortunately I didn’t have to put my plan into action. 

Coming back we encountered a pile of monkeys, some Capuchin and also some squirrel monkeys. There were about 60of them darting all over the place and jumping from one branch to the next, sometimes missing their target -at one stage we heard a splash so presumably one of them missed by a country mile. They were so quick and hard to get clear pics of but here are a couple:

Coming back in to the lagoon was surreal, the sun was setting and the moon was rising and both were reflecting in the still still waters. As the sun was setting we could see the trees of the forest silhouetted against the pink sky. Stunning and what a vision to have as one of our last from Sacha Lodge.

BBQ for dinner and tomorrow we make our way back to Quito. It has been amazing and I am so pleased to have had the experience but for now I am over being soaked to the skin and am looking forward to a slightly cooler temperature and dry clothes. I guess life will seem very boring after this experience.

Amazon, WOW! WOW! and more WOW!

I’m jolted awake by the knock on the door at 5:30am. Breakfast is at 6:00am before we set out on our canopy walk at 6:30am. It had bucketed down most of the night but now it was calm and dry. We could hear the birds and animals in the distance and so looked forward to seeing them from above.

Our walk to the stairs for the canopy walk took about 30minutes with a few stops along the way to check out some of the 250 species of trees per hectare. Arriving there we are confronted with about 300 steps, straight up, until we reached the viewing platform. (I think our guide said 38 metres high).

From there our guide Anna and tracker Wilson kept an eye out pointing out many species of birds and explaining about the different vegetation. There were a few avid bird watchers amongst us and you could see them getting excited with each new sighting. With over 605 different bird species in the forest there was plenty to see and hear. Anna and Wilson were making their own noises to see what responses they could get from the forest.

We stayed a while and then it was time for the canopy walk to the next viewing station. Brave old me went first along a narrow and not so stable bridge, high above the treetops about 150metres to the other side; The thought of the walk was far scarier than the reality of it as looking down you only think you are a wee way off the ground with the tree tops just underneath where you stand.

It was weird watching the clouds forming from the tree canopy as the rain water left on the leaves evaporated and went upwards. Not knowing an awful lot about the mysteries of nature I am fascinated as to how it all works and how all the elements of the jungle work together to provide for one another; even dead trees play their part by kicking off the secondary forest as the sunlight is able to reach the plants below.

Just as we all got to the other side it started to bucket down and when we realised that the rain had set in we made for home. It was just sheet rain the whole way, so much so that we all got drenched inside our ponchos. Despite the rain, which pushes creatures into hiding, we saw a couple of new species of trees which are used for medicinal purposes by the local tribes (the Quichua people are the predominant tribe of the area).

And then, my highlight, a Rainbow Boa; about 4cm in diameter and I guess 1.2m long, it slithered through the grasses with its stunning red and gold markings glistening as it went. So pleased I wasn’t alone when I saw it as I think that would have been scarier than the thought of the canopy walk (which I would now happily do again). So graceful and quick it darted in and out but then started to get stressed so we left it in peace and carried on.

Soaked to the skin and ever so thankful for the gumboots, as soon as we got back we made a beeline for the restaurant and a hot drink and a snack. This walking thing is hard work. 

A hot shower was like heaven when I got back to the room. Now how on earth do we dry all these wet clothes and hope to wear them again. It is so humid that in our rooms we have a “drying box” to keep our electronic equipment when not in use, so as to protect from the humidity. Last nights clothes are still soaking wet and never likely to dry in our room so we are told the best way to get them dry is to have them laundered and dried by the laundry service. It’s weird as it doesn’t feel clammy and humid but everything is wet! Ah I will think about that tomorrow....

As I snoozed on my lovely comfy bed in the background I heard the sound of the bamboo horn telling us lunch was ready. A lovely buffet lunch with soup, empanadas, prosciutto wrapped sausages, roast cauli (I wonder how much they cost here) and freshly fried potato chips. Heaven! And followed by mascerated figs, a nice wee slice of cake and a coffee. How good is that?

I’m really impressed by Sacha Lodge. They have looked after us from the time we got to Quito airport and everything we need (or pretty much want) has been catered for. I expected some transport and a place to stay with maybe the odd quick activity but here we are pretty much kept busy for as long as we want. Our every need pretty much catered for but I must admit a wee espresso would make my life even better at the moment. 

They have even provided us with information packs, not only about the way the lodge operates but about the forest itself. The paper brochures they gave us are starting to get wrinkled with the humidity will soon be going into my drying box as I want to take them home: there is so much interesting stuff in them. We were also given a week backpack and a flannel and water bottle (just as well as I dropped my one from home and wasn’t game enough to go and retrieve it).

Despite the planned activities an afternoon to relax and write this has been heavenly, and listening to the wildlife outside my room made it more so.

Soon time for our next activity where we took another trail through the jungle seeing more incredible trees including a walking palm, which has a very slender trunk and long tall roots above ground.

Like most trees this one needs the sunlight and grows naturally towards it. Because of the structure of the roots the tree can actually move in its search for sunlight.

Further on we found a tiny wee frog, poisonous and very gorgeous. It uses its venom to stun rather than kill its prey. It can then dine on whatever part of the prey it wants. Such a cute wee thing.

It started raining heavily again and I was over the poncho thing so stuck with my wee rain jacket which was no where near as stifling as the poncho but like the poncho didn’t keep much rain out so was drenched by the time we boarded the kayak. Just as we were boarding some monkeys were spotted up in the trees but too far away for us to get a decent look.

Our ride took us down one of the natural tributaries back to the lagoon seeing “smelly turkeys”, kingfishers, parrots and macaw along the way. The turkeys were the only ones I managed to get a pic of but the ride was so magical that it didn’t matter.  

Despite the rain the water appeared dead still but the current was moving us along and had its own ideas; we wound round the bends, under the vines and the only sounds were those of nature and my belly, which for some reason was up to its old tricks again. Always at the times when there are people round, but it didn’t spoil the experience one bit. Words fail me in expressing just how amazing it was, almost ethereal, but the photos sadly don’t show the peace and tranquility.

We were soaked to the skin by the time we got back home, but it really didn’t matter. A hot shower soon solved all the problems of the world and the latest wet clothes were added to the pile of other wet clothes. 

It was nearly time for dinner when I went up to the main house in time to see then end of a presentation about the tribes of the area, each one with a different language, different customs and ideas. It will be interesting to meet one of those tribes tomorrow.

Dinner was another culinary delight: a divine shrimp ceviche (which someone made the comment that they were surprised it was not a hot dish - um hello - I didn’t dare tell them the shrimps had not been cooked by heat but by marinating in citrus juice), and I was the on,y one who chose the pork - a couple of pieces of pork fillet with a passion fruit jus and potato cakes with pickled red cabbage. Truly delish. The pear upside down cake went down a treat as well.

A quick break to get into the remaining dry clothes before heading off on our night walk. It is quite weird as although the rain had stopped you could still hear rain dripping from the tree tops far above, so until you stepped into it you really didn’t know if it was real rain or not.  

As quiet as my bungalow had been I have had neighbours move in next door. The sort that have little consideration for the fact that other people stay here too. They might get a carefully worded verbal message later tonight if they don’t shut up.

Our evening walk was amazing. Firstly it didn’t rain and secondly from the moment we took off, armed with torches we kept seeing insects, frogs, beetles, spiders and even a snake. In fact Wilson, didn’t see the snake (probably the one we saw this morning) until he nearly stepped on it. We then watched the snake slither into a tarantula hole and disappear; the tarantula left waiting outside. There were so many cute bugs and beetles but the adorable tiny frogs were the cutest of the lot. 

It has been an amazing day and I am looking forward to tomorrow going to visit one of the local communities.