Wednesday 30 May 2018

The magnificent works of Guayasamín -WOW!

I go down to breakfast at a respectable hour and the divine Senorita Lucia had a bowl of fruit with yoghurt waiting for me. She had dressed it beautifully and I felt horrible saying I couldn’t eat it. But my americano and juice were gratefully accepted and enjoyed. The wait staff here all wear hairnets and those serving wear white cotton gloves. They really have thought of everything. Considering the place has been virtually empty since I arrived they have an abundance of staff and all so lovely. 
To start my day outside of the hotel I enjoy a duble espresso at Diosolopay and I start to feel human again. The altitude is getting to me this time round but thats ok. An excuse to take it easy. 
While drinking my coffee I caught up with the display about Quito 2040 and the amazing plans they have for this already gorgeous city, all with sustainability in mind. There are 10 initiatives they are focussing on including new water reservoirs, sports grounds, implementing sustainable agriculture, enhancing the new section o f the city. It will be stunning when done. 
Most of the tourists that come here are on the way to the Galapagos Islands, but with the very likely narrowing of tourism to the islands for ecological reasons the tourism here will probably reduce. That will be sad for the livelihood of the locals but it will stop it turning into a tourist haven, which at the moment it isn’t. If they close down access to the Islands it will also affect the local Amazon tourism (Ecuador has only around 3% of the Amazon Basin and most tourists go to Peru or Brazil for an Amazon experience). In the wider group that I was up the basin with I was the only one not going to the Galapagos and for the others the Amazon was a secondary reason for being here so the closing of the islands could have catastrophic effects on tourism. Oil, gas and agriculture all contribute hugely to the economy so there is ample to keep the economy going. 
Its hard to get my head around some of these countries still being classified as developing countries. Sure they aren’t as modern as our countries and many people do not earn anything like a living wage but they blow me away with how further ahead they are in other thing. The average monthly wage was $437.44 in 2017 (they have USD here). A restaurant meal in a local place could cost around $3, in a bit more up market $10, and in a tourist/international place around $20. A BigMac combo is $6.00 and 2 litres of coke $1.84. 12 eggs at $2.35. Clothes are slightly cheaper here than at home, but not by much.
A doctors visit costs around $40. One months rent for a furnished studio in an average city area is about $400 (which is almost the average wage). One months utilities for a studio apartment $76.
There are many many people selling things on the street or doing things like shoe shining. I had my boots done by a lady with virtually no teeth and a massive smile. She had three kids with her, two of the pre-school age and a wee girl aged about 7. She was beautifully dressed in an ironed school uniform and spoke a few words of English. I imagine that the shoe shine people make bugger all, although she charged my $5 for the privilege of polishing my old boots. I know I got ripped off but who cares. If it helps put another kid into school then its worth it.
One really special thing that I have noticed here, and also in both Colombia and Chile is the lack of litter and the provision of ample and varied methods of litter disposal. Separate bins for plastics, paper, organic and other are everywhere. We often have visions of developing countries being dirty but so far I haven’t been anywhere that fits that bill. Buenos Aires had heaps of litter and there were parts that stunk of sewerage but otherwise everywhere I have been is as clean (maybe cleaner) than home. 
That little bit of pondering over coffee behind me I grabbed a cab for the long journey (about 20 minutes) across town, through the new city and into another older pat of town to a museum that was recommended to me by Senorita Lucia.
Well, mind blown is not strong enough for my experience at the Guayasamin gallery and Museum. Here was a massive gallery holding the works of the famed Ecuadorian artist Oswaldo Guayasamin displaying art from his series depicting man’s cruelty to man. Very gruesome but rather stunning at the same time and not my thing but telling stories of good vs evil, the mixing of races and the potential of greatness within humanity. Photo’s were not allowed but google ‘Oswaldo Guayasamín’ if you want to see some of his work.
Some of his sculptures were shown outside:
Then I go to the museum to view his personal collection of art. The collection is housed in what was his own home and remains where he had it displayed. It was truly indescribable, so much stuff, so many antiques from pre colombian times. For someone that was not religious there was a huge amount of religious art but also work from many of the masters; Goya, Picasso are some of the names I recognised but there was so much to see that I felt intoxicated by the time my mini tour ended. I walked into the store at the end of the tour in a bit of a stupor and laid my eyes on a piece of jewellery that he had designed. Done! I’m wearing it now. 
Wow I had plans on doing so much today but was a bit zonked out by the magnificence of what I had seen that I just cabbed to a square in the new city where I had seen some artisan markets. When I originally decided to come to Ecuador I planned on going up to the famous Otovalo markets, but on checking it out more found that whatever is sold there can be found cheaper at the artisan markets here. Otovalo is quite a bit higher in altitude as well so I decided not to push it and stayed close to home. 
My afternoon was spent wandering aimlessly, the markets didn’t grab me at all so eventually grabbed another cab for a $2 ride home. 
Packing, writing, relaxing and a quick dinner at my favourite shop filled up my last night in Quito. 
Ecuador, I have loved every moment. Your people are so divine, your jungle is mindblowing, your culture so interesting and Quito is just super. There are so many things I would have liked to have done whilst here - maybe next time. 

2 comments:

  1. It is hard to get your head around how people make a living when you sum up some of the costs of living combined with the av. wages. It puts things in perspective....

    ReplyDelete
  2. Yep, its scary, real scary but when it comes to educating their kids they will do anything to make it happen.

    ReplyDelete

and the EPILOGUE..............

Having been home a week I’ve now had time to reflect on my trip and to go through all my photos which have reminded me of the things that ha...