Markets, markets and more markets. What a day in Montevideo

Oh well, it was going to be an early start but sometimes things just don’t work out the way we plan. I even missed breakfast so was a little cranky when I set off this morning. But my bus arrived as soon as I got to my stop, it was a sunny day and I was in one of the prettiest cities I have ever been in. Can’t be all bad. 

One of the reasons I stayed over today in Montevideo was to go visit the ‘amazing’ Feria de Tristàn Narvaja market. That indeed I did. A street market that stretches 5 streets in one direction and 7 in another (35 blocks) full of everything you can imagine: fruit, cheese, second hand junk, clothes, shoes 👞, hardware, art, electrics, leather goods. New, pre loved and just pre. Much of it was cheap and nasty but buyers were a plenty and there was a real buzz. I was hoping for street food but was bitterly disappointed (seems sadly lacking in most of the parts of South America that I visited). All in all a fun experience but not one I would repeat or recommend. 

I carried on walking in the direction I went yesterday and as a creature of habit went to the same coffee shop I went to yesterday (coffee was ok and wifi excellent). I sat in the same seat and there in front of me and over a bit was the same guy that was sitting in that seat yesterday. Ha ha. A futbol game is starting on telly so the place is filling up. 

Most everything in the city is shut. I tried to get in to a couple of museums but all closed in. I did wander in to a church to be greeted by a loud and vigorous outpouring from the preacher. Not my kind of church, so that was that. 

Still wandering I walk past the Metropolitan Cathedral and go in just as a service was ending to be greeted by the most amazing singing and music. Soul grabbing. The atmosphere and the beautiful space were such a contrast to the previous place. 

  

Still walking I need food and remembered there was a futbol game on today. Hoping I have the time right I go back to the market to the same place I was yesterday. My waiter remembered me and with a quick question “copa vino” and my “Si” response quickly returns with a glass almost overflowing. That tip yesterday was worth it. He suggests something on the menu. Who am I to argue, without having any idea of what it might be, I agree. 

He brings a bottle of bubbles and gives me a sample to try. Maybe I went overboard with that tip yesterday. Its a very unusual bubbles, little taste but lots of bubbles. 

My meal arrives. I knew I could trust him. I think I’ve found a place that not only knows how to cook pork but for beef knows its medium from its rare. Perfecto! What I have been waiting nearly two months for. A perfectly cooked scotch fillet so tender I don’t need a knife. Kinda beats my previous best steak ever in Johannesburg some 15 years ago. Wow! It got to the stage where I was cutting the steak into small pieces so it would last longer. Divine, absolutely divine and sorry Anthony, your ceviche is now No. 2 on my list. 

I’m envious. The group of four in the table next to me are sharing meals. Now they are on a divine looking paella. I want. Dare I come back tonight? Im not a fat of beef fat but I even went back and picked my way through in case I found another tiny bit of beef. Heaven on a plate. 

Whilst eating I am watching the Mexico Germany game. Gosh the Germans don’t look happy. Oh dear. 

For some reason the waiter tells me his Mum is Swiss, like it changes anything. I guess we are ‘friends’. Mate if every meal is as good as the last two I’ve had here I will emigrate. 

I’m never going to get a glimpse of what else this gorgeous and diverse city has to offer so I hopped on to the tourist bus, which conveniently was there waiting at stop 1 when I finished my steak. 

Driving round I note that there are not so many smokers here but many many people wandering with their matē bowl and thermos in tow. Smoking is very prevalent in South America, they obviously haven’t got the message yet. At least in Montevideo the place is not littered with butts like many places, but then the city here is well maintained and clean. 

The tree lined streets unending. The smell of BBQ ever pervading. 

The beautiful buildings go on and on, too many to describe, too many to choose which are the most beautiful.  

OMG. I am jolted into reality when I hear “food market” for the next stop on the bus. Scrambling to unplug myself, gather my fone and camera, grab my shopping all in half a second and I am off that bus so damn quick I nearly walked out with headphones on. 

Was it worth the scramble? Every second of it. 

A very civilised market space with individual shops selling anything you might want foodwise. Green grocers, gluten free shops, specialised butchers, liquor outlets as well as restaurants, cafes, bars and ice cream parlours. All degrees of heaven under one roof. I ogled, drooled, marvelled that I had heard the commentary and celebrated with a ‘super dulce de leche’ helado (one scoop of dulche de leche with dulce de leche caramel streaks running through it). Oh so good and a just reward for my tough day. 

Once I got back on the bus the rest of the trip was through some gorgeous residential areas and a couple of beautiful parks. So many parks here. It must be glorious in summer before the trees lose their leaves but even now the green and the wide open spaces are amazing.  We also drove past the national futbol field ‘Estadio Centenario”. Uruguay won the first world cup game and I have noticed the number of national flags on cars and houses seems to be growing. The shops have souvenir stuff by the ton. 

So far I haven’t seen anything grotty, un maintained or anything resembling a poor neighbourhood. Footpaths are in need of some TLC and some of the roads could do with a re surface but for the main the infrastructure is far better than the other places I have been. Even the loos here cope with loo paper, and that’s a first. Like Argentina (or the parts that I have seen anyway) this could be any Western country with few visible signs of anything but European settlement which despite its uncompromising beauty means it loses that spark that gets me going.  But having said that I would live here easily.  

The bus ride takes us (I’m the only passenger on board) along the rambla coming to a stop at the mall near home. 

It was such a good day I had to go ruin it on the way home by going to Maccers: when you aren’t hungry but don’t want to leave the hotel once you are back there you get what you deserve. 1/4pounder w bacon meal for $13.25 is what I thought I ordered. What I got was two pieces of broiled something, some soggy bacon, a slice of american cheese and smothered in blue cheese and mayo inside a brioche bun. I ate the chips, drunk the coke, took one bite of the meat and left the rest the way I got it, cute little flag on top intact. 

Another super day in Montevideo is over. Tomorrow I head along the Rio de la Plata to Colonia de Sacramento. Can’t wait.