Well what a beaut bed I slept in last night. It’s not often that I sleep well the first night in a new bed and it was as great. Shame I couldn’t say the same about breakfast which had a pile of random things thrown onto a buffet table along with the ‘norm’ coffee pump pot.
I needed real coffee so I set off in search but before the coffee I had a more pressing job and that was to change the time of my departing ferry tomorrow. I had almost covered every square inch of the old city yesterday, today would explore more which left nothing to do for an entire day tomorrow. So Im going back to Buenos Aires earlier. Imagine! But at least I have a few bits of last minute stuff to do there and that will keep me busy.
So then I started the walk to the city in search of that coffee. Some of the streets were blocked off and looked like a parade was in the making. When I asked I was told it was a holiday today and a parade would start soon. Oh yeah! So thats the third day in a row that half the places are closed so not expecting to find much happening I continued my walk.
Little did I see; a shopping mall with about 30 shops, an artisan market where the word ‘artisan’ should have been replaced with ‘mass produced souvenir’ as nothing was hand made or unique and a few more pretty buildings.
I eventually got back to the spot where I first got sight of the parade preparations and two hours later I caught the tail of end of it. It was to honour the birthday of José Gervasio Artigas, soldier and regarded as the father of Uruguayan independence. It seems the parade participants were predominantly members of the forces, fire brigade and some school kids and I managed a few pics before it finished.
Once the last of the tanks passed I shot across the road to a big cafeteria in the hope of finding at least a coffee. I underestimated the place for they served me up a superb espresso. Yay. It Took a while but it was worth waiting for.
I rambled round the old city a bit hoping to find a piece of art that I could bring home, but alas, nothing other than cheap souvenirs (made in Asia) or matē sets to choose from. A shame. As always there is the odd thing to click away at:
Lunch beckoned and after checking out a few I was lured by El Drugstore which I’d read was pretty good. Certainly different with a zany colourful interior, open kitchen and great music. It was a pretty good meal too with hot crusty bread, a perfectly grilled chicken breast with ‘rustica’ potatoes and a not the greatest copa vino tinto. But I enjoyed having something other than a steak and fries. Sadly forgot to take the pic!
This place is so pretty but it really is just a big tourist trap with nothing to do but walk and eat at overpriced restaurants. What do you do once you have walked the old city? Like me - go for siesta. The answer to everything.
I woke hungry but at only 5:30pm knew that nothing would be open for dinner this early and in my rambling haven’t seen anything like a place for a snack or a mini market. There’s nothing to do in my room and it’s too cold for wandering so it time to kill time.
I hung out till 8pm when Istanbul restaurant around the corner was to open. Just to be sure I was getting the best meal I checked on the best restaurants in the area and then went to check them out. 10 of them, one was the one I ate lunch at and the Istanbul was also included. So that’s eight new restaurants I went round. Every single one closed. OK I go back to the Istanbul for the kofta on their menu (then the ice cream place on the corner for afters). I get to the Istanbul. Closed. And the ice cream place was closing up too.
Colonia you have made it very difficult for me to comment as to whether this is an upcoming place for foodies as everything is shut. Whether it’s because it is off season, or because yesterday was Monday and today is a holiday I don’t know but I’m bitterly disappointed.
Hungry and annoyed I went back to the only of the other restaurant that I passed that had people in it ‘Meson de la Plaza’.
The building that the restaurant is housed in dates back to the 18th century and over the years has been renovated and then taken back to its original state. There are two dining rooms each in a different building joined together by a hallway. The building I am sitting in has a stud that must be around 4.5 metres. The ceiling is exposed beams showing a paper like substance underneath. The walls are exposed natural stone about 1foot thick. Even the art work is old. Its gorgeous.
They have a few dishes that I have not seen on other menus - sweet and sour pork and american spare ribs. As desperate as I am for something different I’m not going there so order a simple spaghetti with tomato. I cheer up when I see my plate of spaghetti, it is massive and looks divine.
Firstly hot bread rolls - tick. Then perfectly cooked spag - tick. Pile on a delicious thick and chunky tomato sauce with heaps of freshly grated parmesan - tick. Yay here I have a tasty, wholesome, hearty meal and exactly what I needed. The best pasta dish I’ve had since leaving home.
And just as I finish my coke and ready to leave the live music comes out. No way am I leaving just yet guys. I order tea to stretch my occupancy out a bit.
A guitarist with the voice of an angel took me back to Roma, the place I miss so much. He sings mainly in Italian but then throws a few Spanish worded songs as well. Divine.
I ask for the bill and hope that I have time to grab a clip of the singing as I am walking out the door (he was sitting in the space between the two dining rooms so I couldn’t grab a pic from where I was sitting). Murphy’s Law, on e settled up and the moment I stand to leave he finishes for a break. Darn.
An early start tomorrow to catch the ferry so lights out. Buenos Noches. Hope tonight’s sleep is as good as last night. The siesta certianly was.
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