Our final ‘family’ dinner was spent at a super place not far from Casa Mara called ‘Malagana’ and boy was it a good one. This was our final chance to be all together with three people leaving for home tomorrow, and two new people joining the family for the second part of the trip and me, leaving the tour but staying on at the hotel for a few days but not as part of the tour.
I was a little spoiled and was sitting next to the divine US couple, Marissa and Rick, who both insisted I sample their meals with them. To start with Rick’s entree, chicken wings roasted in a divine sauce a little bit like hoisin but a squillion times better. Oh I wish I had ordered the same.
We all ordered cocktails and although I’m not a cocktail drinker my spicy mojito was just the best; a regular mojito with a cinamon stick and boy it was great!
Then I saw someones coconut crusted prawns and wanted them too. Typical! But when my main came along I zipped up and savoured the most tender delicious octopus I have ever had. Smoky, tender, juicy and just plain yum. To go with it was a plantain mash and a sprinkle of salsa similar to the one I’d had many times in Chile. Rick insisted I try his steak (lomo) and that too was cooked to perfection with a divine chimichurri topping. I think, just maybe, I might go back to this place before I leave. It was too good to not go back to.
The chatter from people breakfasting in the courtyard woke me next day and a lovely breakfast of fruit and toast greeted me when I came downstairs.
It was already hot and I didn’t fancy anything too energetic so set of with Caroleen for a wander, taking in some sights, checking out the emeralds and eventually coming back to the hotel where the pool and shade beckoned.
As usual I got hungry and took off looking for somewhere to eat. After a long walk I still hadn’t had lunch and ended up at Cafe Lunatico right over the road from the hotel. I walked in immediately before a 40 odd french tour group arrived but still they found a space for me at the bar where I watched the kitchen staff. It was fascinating to watch them plating the meals. Never have I seen such a well organised kitchen.
I ordered my meal and as I waited I was bought a tiny enamel cup of avocado gazpacho with cucumber, oil, and garlic. Just enough for a few sips of scrumptious. I’m not a fan of avocado but whatever they had done to this had the flavours hopping. It was super.
Then came the first of two entrees I had ordered ‘garlic shrimps’ with toast!!!! Real live toast and so good for mopping up the garlicy broth that the shrimps had been perfectly cooked in. Mouthwateringly good.
And then came the ‘Caramanyola’ a cube of mashed yucca coating a cube of flaked crab. I was told it was a local delicacy, and delicacy it was indeed. Hard to describe but the yucca barely influencing the taste of the crab, so although both ingredients were quite subtle, together they made yummmm. Another new flavour to add to my list. I was even treated to a not so bad coffee.
But the coffee wouldn’t let me so grabbed a cab to Las Bóvedas.
Perhaps the most famous of the markets in Cartagena, Las Bóvedas (Spanish for ‘the vaults’) is an arcade underneath the wall of the Old Town right by the sea. It contains different shops selling souvenirs, traditional Colombian clothing, jewelry, paintings – you name it. Originally built as dungeons in the 18th century by Antonio de Arevalo, the space was used as storage units and later, as prison cells. Now, it is home to some of Cartagena’s antiques and handicrafts shops with nothing that really grabbed me but I found a wee something for home there.
The heat was sapping my energy and popped into a wee cafe, run by Australians who employ kids from troubled backgrounds to train them up to be employable. A great idea and similar ventures to what I had seen in other places. But I had gone on for respite from the heat and although the ice cold coke helped, their air con was broken and it was like a furnace inside. I skulled the coke and got out. Fast!
The sun was getting lower so most the streets were bathed in shadows as I walked home, just checking out the sights and glorying in this amazingly cheerful and colourful place. Colombia truly is special, the people are gorgeous, each of the places we visited so different from the other and each with it’s special charm and own unique history, the local food is superb, the life style is laid back and quite frankly doesn’t get much better.
Dinner was at a place just down the road; chorizo sausage and spare ribs with a chimichurri sauce. The sauce was good, the ribs melt in your mouth but tasteless, the chorizo, well like chorizo and the beer was exactly what I wanted. Despite the food not turning me on it was a fun night, finished off nicely with a walk to the local square and a scotch at Cafe Lunatico.
Music was beating big time by the time I got back to my room and put paid to an early night. Oh well. It has been a lovely day, even if the heat nearly wrecked me.
Some goodbyes said and it was time for bed. Another super day.
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