A day that is not about food.
Today I checked out of my Lastarria apartment. I can’t say it was the most salubrious place I have ever stayed, but it was cleanish, had great wifi, a very comfy bed and an awesome shower. Shame about the total lack of decor and the couch that was supposed to be a spare futon that was bumpier and noisier than the cobblestones on the road outside. But location wise it could not have been better. A neighbourhood that came alive at night and gave me many dining options without having to go further afield.
I packed a wee bag, dumped my suitcase at the hotel I’m staying at when I come back, noticing on the way the most beautiful huge green parks everywhere. They were just beautiful and filled with people wandering and taking life in. I hopped on the metro getting off one stop before my destination so I could have a wander. The Centrale metro stop takes you to the most amazing huge shopping mall; hundreds of little shops selling all and sundry and enough exits to get me thoroughly confused, but I eventually found my way to the Alameda Bus Depot.
A massive bus depot serving central Chile and used by a number of bus companies. I chose ‘Pulman’ because they popped up first on my search and they look to be the poshest. $11 for a 90 minute ride to Valparaiso on the coast seemed like a great deal. Reclining seats, immaculately clean, pleasant drivers and they depart for Valparaiso every 10minutes.
First to board I nabbed a seat close to the front. It was almost empty when we set off but soon we stopped at the second inner city stop where a few more alighted. It was still half empty but others with numbered seats moved me out of my post and I ended up with a seat buddy who fell asleep before we left the depot.
The scenery in the beginning was quite unremarkable, very very dry and parched ground with vegetation that resembles tussock grass. The road was excellent, 2 lanes each way, smooth and well maintained; far better than our NZ roads. Santiago is bordered on two sides by mountains; the Andes and the smaller Chilean Coastal Range through which we passed in a very long rather slick tunnel. On the other side we suddenly saw green pasture, flowering bouganvillea and a sweet little town. Palm trees appeared and the hills were lush with vegetation. Judging by the signage this looks to be an area of orchards nestled in the crotch of the surrounding hills.
When I checked the weather forecast for Valpo as it is known, It painted a rather dismal picture, cold and wet. I dressed accordingly, long sleeves, boots, rain jacket and polar fleece at the ready. It was so hot and sunny in the bus I nearly expired. Just as well I packed layers and didn’t take too much notice of the forecast.
The road climbed steeply and then went through another long tunnel as we headed out of the basin to find the Casablanca Valley and vineyards ahead. In this region they produce Sauvignon Blancs, Chardonnays as well as Pinot Noir, Merlot and Syrah and hopefully I can find a tour to check some of it out. There is a zero tolerance to drink driving so I cant even hire a car and get there and so far the only tours I have found have left from Santiago - Murphy’s Law.
The vines were changing colour in the autumn sun and the whole place looked magical.
The vineyards gave way to forests, some trees are pine but there is another that looks like eucalyptus, which I have smelled a few times in the city.
We arrived in Valparaiso and I felt at home. Like Wellington surrounded by hills, only a tad steeper, even with Tsunami shelter signs. So pretty, so colourful.. ....so exiting to have another place to explore.
Despite, horror of horrors, staying in a chain hotel in a foreign place I think it was a good choice. An easy 28 block walk from the bus station meant I got my bearings very quickly and easily found my way to the Ibis over the road from the port. I expect it will be noisy in the morning but who cares, I have a lovely room looking over the port and way across the bay to Vina del Mar, the beach resort. The hotel sits on top of a huge car park which sits above the railway (metro) station and also within the same complex is a supermarket, bank, shops, restaurants and pretty much anything I could want. It’s a few blocks from the centre of the city so perfectly placed.
I guess the last two weeks have hit me as once I got to the hotel and shot out and bought my water I hibernated for the rest of the day, only going out briefly to grab something quick for dinner. Shattered comes to mind, but in a good way. It’s an early night for me.
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